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Ok, so the subject says what I think of actually having to post this, but I do have a serious question. Can I get a power strip/surge protecter with more than six outlets. I have about 9 devices and no spare outlets.
You can, but anything more than 6 would be risking overloading the power outlet.
I think the most they sell is 8 and that's pushing it.
They have safety switches, but I wouldn't rely on it.
I'm using a powerboard which hold 6 and I think that's plenty.
my big problem is large power blocks, like the one for my Mac. It blocks access to another outlet. They should seriously redesign things since power blocks can be so big. I have the computer, a powered hard drive, my phone, an Apple Watch, an iPad, an amazon echo, possibly a google home mini in the future, and my victor reader. All of this stuff has a legit purpose, but one surge protecter, even the kind with 2 USB ports and 4 regular plugs, just isn't enough, especially with the Mac charger blocking an outlet
Maybe you could just buy more power strips? You probably have more than one source of electricity in the house. And I'm guessing you don't need to be charging all those devices all the time. You just charge the phone, then the watch, then the iPad, etc. But god damn, that's a bunch of devices.
Apple products can be irritating in a variety of ways, it seems. I'd second Mayana's advice of distributing the load across different wall sockets and rotating your charging cycles, if possible. Looking around though, there are 8 slot power bars [here] for about 20$, or if your really pulling the juice there's a selection of heavy duty workshop power bars that go from 12 to 24 slot outlets [here] for around 40 to 50$.
Hi.
Two things.
@5, would'nt the heavy duty bars really overload the walls power outlet?
Regarding the power, yeah, I think the only real good solution is distributing it over two power strips and sockets. We could technically eliminate the powered harddrive by ordering a new harddrive bigger than the old one you have now, putting the data of the old hdd ont the new hdd and be done with that.
there are also these multiport charging cables. You have your normal charging cable for a lighning or micro uSB device, but you have multiple chargers at the end next to each other, like a lightening, micro USB, or multiple lightening chargers, or what ever combination. You plug the cable into the uSB wall adapter just liike as a normaler chargers.
You could charge your iPhoone and the iPad with the same cable then.
Greetings Moritz.
look for power squids. they only have five plugs, but can bend so they work great for the large power bricks.
Or for many of the usb devices that you have, you could buy a duel-port usb charging adapter. That would be good for your phone and your victor reader, or your phone and your watch. Or buy two duel port chargers and plug the google home mini or echo into one of them while you have three ports open for your phone, your watch and your stream. I personally have a powered usb hub plugged in that I can use to charge my victor or my myfi/glasses which charge slowly, but those things have been known to charge a bit slower overall. On that 6port power strip is the powered desktop drive, the usb hub, my phone charger, a one-port plug for my Victor Reader Trek, and my Dectalk Express, and the mac is plugged into the wall. am i correct in that you either must not have two power outlets, which is rare and quite surprising, or you have something else plugged into the second one? If it's the ladder, really consider moving the mac power cord to a full outlet. Apple requiring so much wattage and grounding to charge the mac makes their power brick a large pain-in-the-ass.
@6
Thats difficult to say without knowing more about the electrical of where ElizaBaez is, or whats plugged into the bar. Theres a guide [here] to help better find that out though.
Houses are usually equipped with circuit breakers and fuses to prevent fires in case of too much power running through, though they aren't 100% reliable in some cases, and this also assumes their wired correctly in the first place. The first step is to find the circuit breaker and find out how many amps they're rated for, which on average is 15 to 20 amps.
Then you want to know the Voltage capacity of the circuit the outlets are connected to, such as 120 or 240 volt. Most standard wall sockets would be 120 volt, which are used for things like microwaves, vacuum cleaners, charging devices, etc. 240 volts are usually for heavy duty applicances like refrigerators, freezers, ovens, dishwashers, etc. This can also be figured out by checking the circuit breakers that outlets are connected to.
Now to find out if your overloading a circuit or not you'll need to figure out the Amp's, which is a measure of how much current is being pulled. First add up the watt's of all the electrical devices plugged into all the outlets on that circuit, along with any light blubs or fixtures. Then you divide the total watt's by the voltage capacity of the circuit to get Amp's being drawn. Taking the example from the article:
So, let’s say you’re running a 150-watt lamp and a 1,500-watt space heater on one outlet in your living room. From the map you made of your circuit breaker panel, you also see that there are two more electrical outlets and a 100-watt light running on that same circuit. You also see that the circuit is 120 volts. The other two outlets are empty. You want to use a 3-way adapter plug in another 150-watt lamp into the same outlet as the heater and the first lamp. So, you first need to add up the wattage of what’s plugged into the electrical outlets and light fixtures:
150 + 150 + 1,500 + 100 = 1,900
So, you’ll have a total of 1,900 watts running on that 120-volt circuit. The amperage would be:
[1,900 Watts] ÷ [120 Volts] = [15.83 Amps]
This will be fine if the circuit is governed by a 20-amp breaker, but it will overload a 15-amp one, and you’ll have to plug the lamp in somewhere else.
Generally you do not want to go right up to the amp limit, usually you want to go at most to 80% draw, because if you ride the limit it can still overheat the circuits without explicitly tripping them. Its also important to tell the difference between a straight power strip and a power bar as referenced [here], one has surge protection, the other does not, though there are many power strips that also come with surge protection, such as the ones i've linked to previously. The 12 slot one is rated for around 15 Amps, which means you can plug in as many devices as you'd like, as long as they all together don't draw more than 15 Amps, or it will trip the surge protector on the power bar, or your circuit breaker, or both.
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